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Not all is ideal, though. I would be remiss if I didn't share some of the negatives of the modifier.
1. It is not lightweight. It's a few ounces on the porky side. This makes for the entire rig to be more top-heavy than what you may be comfortable with. In fact, one problem I've encountered on several occasions is the swinging weight. As you move around, if the flash head does not have an interlock to hold it in the vertical bounce position, the flash head will move. For stand mounted portable lights where there is limited movement, the FlashBender's weight is most likely not a concern. This is only a problem with the largest FlashBender. The two smaller ones are less than half the weight and do not cause this problem. If weight is an issue, choose the smaller version.
2. The Velcro strap design is by far the weakest aspect of the FlashBender. I really don't like it and without a doubt it will be the first, if not the only, thing to fail. For a product which is built to such a high quality standard, the Velcro strap is a glaring design weakness. The Velcro is not of industrial strength and repeated use will wear it out to the point where the strap no longer holds. To counter the weight of the FlashBender, you may have to cinch the straps down tight enough the Velcro is just on the edge of holding. If the Velcro itself had twice the surface area, the strain would be spread out over the greater area and they should last longer. The straps are also elastic. Elastic bands have a nasty trait of becoming stretched with use. Again, this is likely to contribute to a premature failure of the entire attachment mechanism. To relieve the strain and to provide enough grip to the flash, I've wrapped a second Velcro strap around it.
3. A second issue with the Velcro straps is the inadequate length. They are not long enough to allow the straps to go around anything larger than a Vivitar 285HV and even that is literally a stretch. The FlashBender's straps are far too short--designed for a maximum flash-head circumference of 11 inches . The solution I found was to make Velcro extensions. These are strips of Velcro that have the hooks on one side, the loops on the other. Easy to make--just go to the fabric department of your local department store and pick up a roll of 1-inch wide self-adhesive Velcro. Stick the hook and loop sides back to back and cut it to 4-inch length. While you are at it, cut the rest of it to foot long sections and use it for cable-ties and for gaffing flashes to railings, pipes or anything else they fit around. I made two small segments which are pretty much permanently attached to the FlashBender and I attach/detach with them instead of the weaker FlashBender Velcro.
4. It's either one inch too small or one inch too large. Seriously! I know I'm opening myself up to criticism for being too picky, but the FlashBender is just at that awkward size where it's too large to balance well, but too small for the desired diffused light look. Not really a flaw or mis-design, just a preference. Which leads to the next point.
5. The white surface is very reflective. It has a glossy sheen to it. This is a good thing from the aspect that there is not much fall-off, like you get with most modifiers. Many modifiers eat an entire stop without batting an eye and most reflectors eat two. Depending on how you curve this thing, it loses very little light, but the light is more specular. If you've ever built a reflector out of white hobby foam, you know that the entire foam surface lights up pretty evenly. That's not the case with the FlashBender. Unless you have it bent perfectly, you end up with a much smaller area where the light is actually reflecting towards your subject. A Lumiquest scoop modifer will give better quality light on the subject, with about a half-stop of additional light loss than the more reflective FlashBender. A homemade reflector made out of hobby foam, even when dimensionally smaller will have smoother shadows than the FlashBender. If the surface was less glossy, it would act more like a diffuser and less like a mirror, but with a greater light-loss. The benefit of the glossy surface may outweigh the drawbacks, but it does occasionally force you to spend more time carefully shaping it.
Related to the previous, the FlashBender works very well in conjunction with an UltraBounce or OmniBounce that allows you to spread or diffuse the light before it hits the reflector. In this configuration, it's actually quite decent as the light is spread out more evenly across the entire reflector as well as providing just a bit more room bounce. This combination gives a lighting characteristic not too different from bare-bulb/reflector lighting from fifty years ago. The bulb gives a direct lighting across the forward facing hemisphere, while the reflector bounces the backward facing light towards the subject increasing the overall surface area to soften the shadows. Obviously, using a dome reflector with the FlashBender will result in loss of light--somewhere around a half-stop, and it will also give just a hint of direct light which will add a harsh edge to the subject's nose and chin, but it also incorporates more room reflection. Depending on the room itself, this may be a benefit or it may just be a loss of light without any image-quality gains at all.