Surrounding the rewind knob is the ISO select and exposure compensation dials. It is a simple affair to just twist the knob to adjust the exposure compensation and each click is a 1/3 of a stop. (as a side note, the viewfinder scale is incremented in 1/3 stops). When using OTF-TTL flash, this will adjust the flash exposure, otherwise it just biases the exposure reading per the desired setting.  As the OM-3Ti is a manual camera, I don't really understand why the exposure-compensation dial is of any importance as you can just offset the meter by the desired amount. But it's there and usable if desired.  The OM-2 series of bodies placed the exposure compensation dial to the right of the prism where the spot-meter controls are on the OM-3 and OM-4 series cameras. I personally prefer the OM-2 placement as the right trigger finger is used to adjust and doesn't take the left hand away from the lens. Also, you must periodically check the position of the exposure-compensation dial on the OM-3 and OM-4 series cameras as they are easily bumped. The dial was stiffened in the "Ti" models as the original OM-4's was too easily moved. If the dial is moved from the neutral position an indicator appears in the viewfinder display to alert you to the non-normal status.

Next to the exposure-compensation dial is the flash mode selector switch and battery check button. The switch is used to select OTF-TTL or X-Sync. With a T-series flash, you can select X-Sync to defeat the exposure automation. When using the F280 flash in high-sync mode, the flash will start firing the moment the first curtain begins moving across the face of the film. X-Sync and normal OTF-TTL flash exposure waits until the first-curtain has fully revealed the film surface before firing the flash. As previously mentioned, the F280 flash will sync at any speed on the camera, all other flashes require 1/60 or slower.

Astute observers will see something missing on the OM-3 and OM-3Ti which is present on all other OM bodies.  There is no self-timer. As the OM-1 has a self-timer, I'm not sure the technical reasons why they didn't include it on the OM-3Ti other than maybe the electronics for the metering system might be occupying that internal space. Regardless, this is usually a very infrequently used function and most, if not all, OM System owners will have a second body with this feature included.

So, the question begs to be asked:  Why?  Why have a mechanical shutter camera? The top reason I can think of is winter photography where extreme cold shortens battery life and stops the function of electronics. As the OM-3Ti has a fully mechanical shutter, it is fully operational even if the meter is dead.  Most lighting conditions can be assessed to a reasonable accuracy just through observation and hand held meters may also be used. I don't know if the OM-3Ti is any more rugged than the OM-4Ti, as both cameras are well-built and designed for years of professional use.

The OM-3Ti is normally about 12 times the price of an OM-1 body and three times the price of an OM-4Ti body.  Is it worth the difference?  To put it into perspective, the OM-3Ti is the cost of a decent DSLR, so the price for the typical photographer these days is probably acceptable. If a photographer were to have only one OM body, I'd probably recommend an OM-4Ti, but if I were to take only one camera on a trip into the wilds or up a mountain, it would absolutely be the OM-3Ti.

And that is exactly where the OM-3Ti occupies a niche.  When other cameras die from battery exhaustion or abuse, the OM-3Ti will keep working.  It is the most technologically advanced mechanical shutter camera ever made.  Had I realized years ago what the OM-3Ti was like, I would have skimped and saved to buy one. I consider it a camera that goes beyond mere specifications and feature count.

- Ken